ODESSA, UKRAINE

An American's First Visit

TRAVEL JOURNAL - My Days In Odessa - December 1998


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Pictures from December 1998 Trip (Being Added)

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UPDATE: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 - Once again, my trip to Odessa, Ukraine began as I left my office at the college and literally ran for the car. I rushed home and there my son waited to drive me to the airport in Raleigh, NC. As with my last trip, my time was tight and I had to hurry to reach the airport in time for my flight.

I did make it to the airport in time for the flight and without any problems I checked in and then boarded the airplane for the first leg of the journey. I landed in Atlanta where I then caught my flight for Warsaw, Poland.

UPDATE: Thursday, December 17, 1998 - Once I arrived in Warsaw, I took a taxi to the hotel - of course being overcharged for the ride. Nevertheless, I made it to the Grand Hotel where I began the wait for the arrival of my lady later that evening. We were meeting in Warsaw so she could go to the US Embassy to get her K-1 Fiancee Visa to travel with me to the United States.

Not being sure when her train from Odessa would arrive, I took a taxi to he train station at 7pm and began what would be a two-hour wait. The train station was cold inside. They did not even have the doors to the building closed and I was freezing as I waited. In addition, I was not positive that I was at the right station, so I tried to ask the workers, but not one of them could speak English. Finally I found a train schedule and could read the word Odessa. I assumed I was in the right place so I waited and waited.

It was very interesting seeing the people stand outside by the train tracks with their boxes and bags. It looked like a scene from a 1930's movie. It was very surealistic to say the least.

Finally a train came creeping into the station. The train was very old and slow. Smoke filled the air and I ran to try to find the car where my lady was riding. Then, out of the dark, I heard her voice. I snapped a picture in the general direction of the voice and the next moment we were in each other's arms. After 120 days of being apart we were together again. She was so warm and I was so cold. It was an incredible moment.

I took her luggage and we quickly found a taxi and off we sped to back to the Grand Hotel. Frankly, the experience felt like a dream. We were so happy to see each other again.

UPDATE: Friday, December 18, 1998 - Even though our appointment with the US Embassy was scheduled for Monday, I suggested that we go today to the Embassy. To my pleasant surprise, we were allowed to enter and were told that we could have our interview today. After a wait of an hour or two, they called our names and we presented our papers. When they saw that I was with her, they did not even request many of the papers that we had brought. As for the interview, the only question they asked was if I were her fiance. This part of the process was very simple for us. I realize that it can be much more demanding, but in our case, there was no problem. We were told to return at 3pm to get the visa, so we left feeling wonderful.

Walking around Warsaw, we stopped at a Burger King to grab a bite to eat. It was so good to have this much of the process completed. Nevertheless, we both wanted to have the visa in our hands before we celebrated too much.

At 3pm we returned to the Embassy. We sat and waited with two other people getting visas. Then, the two other people were called up and given their visa but we were not. I will admit that we felt a bit of tension as we waited for more than 30 minutes without a word from them. My lady was getting very nervous and I tried to reassure her that all would be fine. Then, finally, they called her name. Then we stepped up and there it was. We had the visa! On the way out of the Embassy I snapped a photo of her and was immediately told that pictures were not allowed. I offered them my film, but they said just take no more pictures. This photo is a treasure to me now since I realize we are one of the few people who have such a photo.

I realize that I did not have to go to Warsaw to be with her for this process, but I would not trade the experience for the world. It was so wonderful to see her face and share the moment. It was incredible.

UPDATE: Saturday, December 19, 1998 - Today was wonderful. The stress of the visa is over and with it in hand, we were able to really relax and enjoy ourselves. With our train for Odessa leaving Tuesday morning, we were able to simply enjoy being together without a care in the world. After the long months of work and waiting, the feeling is undescribable.

We ate breakfast together in the hotel restuarant - eggs, sausage, yougurt, orange juice, and bread with butter. It was very pleasant. They had a Christmas tree with blue balls on it. My lady liked it very much and we decided to have one like this in our home next year.

We stayed in the hotel much of the day and in the afternoon took a walk to a restuarant near the hotel. We laughed that last night we had walked so far trying to find one. We had chicken and a salad and coffee and a smoke. We then walked to find a bottle of champagne. We found it, plus juice and candy. It was a wonderful and relaxing day.

UPDATE: Sunday, December 20, 1998 - This was another day of relaxing in Warsaw. I am beginning to like it here and would like to return one day - under different circumstances of course.

The weather was rainy today and we spent much of the time indoors. In the evening, we got out for a short walk to a pizza place. The pizza was a bit strange by American standards. It had strips of roast beef on it and no tomato sauce.

Since it was raining, she wore my coat over her nice leather and fur one to keep it dry. We were very tired as the darkness fell over Warsaw.

UPDATE: Monday, December 21, 1998 - Vowing to try to see the city today, we shared breakfast in the hotel. As it began to snow a little bit, I was happy to finally see the white stuff. The winter has been so fierce in Poland, and now that I am here only rain. The snow lasted only a short while and only dusted the ground. When she and I talked about what we have seen in Warsaw, she said - a pizza, a hamburger, and the US Embassy. She is so funny.

We had a nice supper in the hotel restuarant - turkey, whole potatoes, cooked carrots, wine, and salad. It was a decent meal.

Afterwards, we went to the hotel gift shop and I found an hourglass for 21 zloty (if I spelled that right).

UPDATE: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 - This morning we got a slow start, despite the fact that we have an 8am train to catch at Gadansk Station. I packed my things and we went down for breakfast at about 7:10am. I had to wait for my eggs and then after breakfast pay the hotel bill. They had computer problems and I had to wait. At about 20 till 8am we finally got to the taxi. We told the driver, who did not speak English, that we needed to go to Gadansk. He just kept saying Central. We said No! No! - Gadansk, and he would only reply with Central. With the traffic heavy and only minutes until our train would leave (and by the way, there is no refund if you miss your train.) As he drove, we both were very anxious about missing the train. In fact, we both wondered if we would even be taken to the right train station. Would it be Gadansk or Central?

At five minutes till eight there it was, Gadansk! My lady ran to the ticket window to findout which train. We ran with the luggage and breathlessly reached the trian at two minutes till eight. We both swore to never do this again as the train pulled out promptly at 8am. We had made it by two minutes.

We were able to get a sleeper room which is designed for four people. They said it was empty and we could have it for just the two of us for the trip. That sounded great, but unfortunately they recognized that I was an American. Later they came by and said that there were more people to board the train and that they would be put in the room with us, unless we wanted to pay $80 to keep the room to ourselves. I knew it was a bribe so I offered $50 and they agreed at $60. I paid it so at least the 26 hours on the train will be much better. I realize that giving us the private room and then coming back with that line was all part of their plan to get a little cash out of my pocket. This is the way things are done there.

UPDATE: Wednesday, December 23, 1998 - As I am writing this, I am moving slowly thorough Ukraine. An occasional street light reveals the snow-covered ground. I'm listening to cuts from the Rocky album and the Beatles - Back In the USSR. It is like a dream or a movie. This beats your sterilized group tours. This is real.

The train shakes and rattles moving at about 35 mph. It could be WWII vintage. Back in he US, back in the US, Back in the USSR.

My lady sleeps like a living doll. I love that crazy Ukrainian woman and she loves her crazy American man.

8am - The train has stopped at a station for a few minutes. Probably the 1000th station so far. There are a few inches of snow on the ground. My lady still sleeps. I had a rather restless night, yet it was a worthwhile experience. I think we reach Odessa at 11am. (Taking into consideration the 1 hour time change.)

The toilet on the train is incredible. It is roughly pieces of welded metal (perhaps thick aluminum). It looks like a seat that would double as an electric chair.

The sun is now coming up. Many people are outside all bundled up, pulling small sleds with their goods. This ain't AmTrak. This is down-to-earth and surrealistic at the same time. I sat up a good while last night just looking out of the windows.

6:23pm - The train reached Odessa around 11:15am. My lady's father was there. We shook hands and took photos and then off to the taxi. The ride to their apartment flooded me with memories. Then I saw the statue at the top of the 200 steps, and we were home.

A bountiful meal awaited with fish and pork and much more than we could eat. We were toasted with champagne and her dad wished us good luck - speaking in his limited English. It was really nice.

Then I took pictures of the family seated around the table. I gave them a gift - a picture book of North Carolina (where we will be living). I sat and explained the pictures to them.

In the afternoon a lady came to pick up the $200 I delivered from her fellow in the USA.She had many questions about the visa process. I took a gift from her to mail in the USA to her fellow. I also snapped a photo of her to send to her guy.

After a wonderful, relaxing bath, it was off for a rest. It is marvelous spending another day with my lady.

After some rest, one of my lady's friends came with her husband. We toasted our happiness and future. Although I understod little that was said, we all had a splendid time.

UPDATE: Thursday, December 24, 1998 - 11:30am - My lady has begun packing her things. There is a lot to do to get it all ready. Her parents are so nice. They want her to take many nice things. I wish we had room for it all.

1:15pm - My lady should return any minute. Her mother and her went out. She went to officially resign her position at the dental institute. She is still a doctor, a dentist, and will be forever, but she no longer holds her position in Odessa. This is a monumentous step. It will shape the future of her and her son and me for generations to come. Both of our lives, the lives of her family, and the lives of our children have been altered forever.

UPDATE: Friday, December 25, 1998 - CHRISTMAS DAY IN ODESSA! Actually they celebrate it on January 6. 5pm - Today is really just another day here. We went out and about at around 11am to get my passport stamped. We paid $40 for this but next time much more. We also visited the Agency where she sent and received e-mail. We bought Champagne and celebrated in the Agency. She seemed a little sad to leave it for the last time.

It was cold today. Some snow still on the ground. Everybody in fur coats and hats. Very different from USA. I enjoyed our short walk and taxi rides very much. She and I went back at 4pm to get my passport. Bu the way, borsh for lunch. It was really very good.

Her parents are getting sad about her leaving. I can see they love her so much. It will be difficult for them tomorrow I am sure.

I will now try to call my kids for Christmas.

Her dad video taped us today.

UPDATE: Saturday, December 26, 1998 - Midnight - Today we gout up and finished packing her things. The grandparents were sad. The woman who encouraged my lady to put her picture on the internet came to say farewell. I thank God for her. The final f arewells began and it was difficult.

We packed a truck with all of the luggage and were off to the airport. We passed the prison and some housing that was incredibly poor. I remember a woman sweeping the side of the street with a broom made from a stick and branches. Unbelievable.

We arrived at the Odessa Airport a couple of hours early. We had champagne and she popped the cork. The cold airport was so unlike those of this country. Ungroomed dogs just ran free inside and nobody seemed to care.

As we went through customs, she told them of some of the gifts we were taking to the USA. The rule is that you cannot take out diamonds, silver, gold, or like precious things. If they do let you take them, you must bring them back with you when you return one day. To avoid this, there is the bribe system. Unfortuantely, I had filled out the customs form telling exactly how much cash I had and guess what, that's how much it would cost to get her things out of the country. I should have written a lower figure, because when we boarded the plane, I was basically broke.

Her parents waved goodbye as we boarded the plane for Istanbul, Turkey.

When we arrived at the airport, we were told that we would have to pay for a Turkish visa if we wanted to leave the airport a and go to our free hotel room. Since she was from Ukraine I think the cost was about $20. Since I was American, the visa cost $45. I simply did not have this much money left after being cleaned out in Odessa. My lady had some money and I scraped my together and we were able to get to our hotel. At that point, I literally had $2 remaining. I thought, if there are any fees in New York at the airport, I have no money at all. I tried to get cash from my credit card, but it w as not possible in Turkey.

Frankly, at the hotel it was rough on everyone. There was a lot of fatigue and stress from this big step. I did not go to sleep until after 3am. I was up walking around the hotel unable to sleep. Not a good night.

UPDATE: Sunday, December 27, 1998 - 6:20am - The big day has arrived. With no sleep, I do not feel so good. 7:25am - For breakfast I had only juice. In the resturant of the hotel, I felt tired and a bit down.

After waiting at the airport, it was finally time to board the plane for NYC. The flight was long, tiring, and a bit stressful.

NYC was a nightmare. It was so confusing. No help from anyone. We fought to get through immigration and then to check our luggage back in for the flight to NC. We missed our flight because of the time it took. It was unreal. I never want to see JFK airport again. We were able to get a flight for a couple of hours later, but without money, I would not even be able to call my kids to tell them of the delay. I assumed we would arive at the airport and noone would be there for us. Without even money for a taxi, I wondered what we would do.

In the middle of the night when we did arrive in NC, there were stood my kids waiting for us. It was a wonderful sight. They had a Welcome to America sign and had even booked hotel accomodations for the night so we would not have to drive home. It had been a stressful trip - really not very pleasant from the Odessa Airport until this moment, but we were in the USA and looking at friendly faces.

UPDATE: Monday, December 28, 1998 - Today we made the two and a half hour drive to our home. The trip is complete. Our new life truly begins now.



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